How to Start Using Retinol or Retinoids: A Beginner’s Guide

Do you want to start using retinol because you know it is the best anti-aging agent, but you are afraid and don't know what to do? The trick is to start slowly!

Having healthy, young and radiant skin is the desire of many people, and to achieve this goal, many look for solutions in the world of cosmetics. One of the most popular and effective substances in combating signs of aging and improving skin texture is retinol or its derivatives, retinoids (they are in fact the cosmetic ingredients with the greatest scientific and clinical evidence in anti-aging). However, it is essential to know how to start using it to avoid unwanted side effects and obtain the best results. In this article, we will teach you everything you need to know to start incorporating them into your skin care routine.

What Are Retinol and Retinoids?

Retinoids are a class of compounds derived from vitamin A, which have a wide range of benefits for the skin. They are known to stimulate cell renewal, reduce wrinkles, minimize dark spots, improve skin texture, and even fight acne. Retinol (vitamin A) is milder, available over the counter, while retinoids such as tretinoin are more potent and require a prescription. In terms of activity, we have from lowest to highest, the esters of retinol, retinol, retinaldehyde (or retinal) and retinoic acid. The irritating potential also increases in the same direction.

How to Start Using Retinol or Retinoids?

Consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist :

Before starting any treatment with retinol or retinoids, it is essential to consult a healthcare professional such as a pharmacist trained in cosmetology or a dermatologist. They can assess your skin, identify your specific needs and recommend the right product for your skin type.

Start with a Low Concentration:

If you're new to using retinoids, start with a product that contains a lower concentration of retinol, usually between 0.1% and 0.2%. This will allow your skin to gradually get used to the treatment and minimize the possibility of irritation. You can start with retinyl esters (like retinyl palmitate) or retinol if your skin is sensitive.

It may not be enough to pay attention to the ingredients and their concentrations, but it may also matter the product formulation which can lead to different release and tolerance (products with the same ingredients and concentrations from different laboratories may have different efficacy and tolerance).

Apply in Small Quantity:

The equivalent of a pea grain is enough for the face and neck. Too much will only increase the possibility of irritation without extra benefits.

Apply to Dry Skin:

Apply after cleansing the skin with a mild product, but on very dry skin, to avoid increased permeation.

Start Slow:

Apply just 1 to 2 times a week at first and gradually increase the frequency until your skin gets used to it. This process is called Retinization and can take more than 1 month.

Be Prepared for the Adjustment Phase:

At the beginning of treatment, it is common to experience irritation, redness and peeling of the skin. This is known as the "adjustment phase." If symptoms are very uncomfortable, speak to your dermatologist, who can adjust the concentration or frequency of application.

Apply at Night:

Retinoids are most effective when applied at night, as sunlight can degrade the formulas and affect their effectiveness. Gently wash and dry your face, then apply a small amount of retinol or retinoid to clean, dry skin. Protect the skin around your eyes, nose and lips with a moisturizer or fat cream to avoid irritating these more sensitive areas.

Use a Sunscreen:

During the day, it is essential to use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher. Retinoids can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, increasing your risk of sunburn and skin damage. You can and should apply a moisturizer beforehand.

Hydrate Properly:

Retinoids can cause dryness and peeling of the skin. Therefore, it is important to use a moisturizer suitable for your skin to keep your skin's moisture barrier intact. You can use the “sandwich method”, that is, apply moisturizer first, then retinol and then more moisturizer (do not use occlusive substances such as petroleum jelly).

You can swap your usual moisturizer for a more nourishing, soothing and repairing one.

Be Consistent:

Consistency is key to getting results with retinol or retinoids. Use the product regularly, following the instructions of healthcare professionals. Results may take a few weeks or even months to become visible.

Do not use acids or exfoliants

Avoid using physical or chemical exfoliants to avoid damaging the skin barrier.  In any case, retinol itself also has an exfoliating and renewing effect. Also avoid using active ingredients with irritating potential such as Vitamin C on the same night.

Do not apply to irritated or damaged skin

If your skin is sensitized, irritated and the skin barrier is damaged, do not start or continue applying retinoids to avoid worsening the skin condition. Use calming and repairing serums and creams until the condition of the skin is normalized.

If you cannot tolerate its use at all because you have extremely sensitive skin, rosacea or some other condition, choose formulas with milder anti-aging active ingredients, such as peptides, bakuchiol or growth factors.

Start at 20

Start early to prolong your skin's youthfulness. Don't delay and start now!

Retinol and retinoids are powerful allies in skin care, as they activate cell turnover and collagen production. However, it is crucial to use these products responsibly and under the guidance of a healthcare professional. By following the tips above and being patient during the adjustment phase, you'll be on your way to radiant, rejuvenated skin. Always remember that each person is unique, and what works for one person may not work for another. So, customize your skin care routine according to your individual needs and enjoy the benefits of retinol or retinoids safely.

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